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Bitter Tonic

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A Newfoundland Breakfast And A Walk Along The Cliffs

kay williams and sue kenney

Tuesday morning Kay made us the breakfast part of Kay’s bed and breakfast. This consisted of;

  • pancakes with molasses and bakeapple syrup
  • some kind of magic bacon that tastes better than any bacon I’ve ever had
  • fish and brews, which is a local dish of salt cod, hard tack bread (lasts forever as it us unleavened and therefore a favourite of sailors) and scruncheons (fried crispy salt pork).
  • pan fried capelin, which are small ocean fish that I learn signal that a whale is fast approaching and right behind them.

This fed me for the entire day.

I’m still poutin’ because I missed toutins - which Kay made fresh on Monday and the pilgrims said were absolutely divine - but that just means I will have to come back.

Breakfast briought more sharing, caring and healing laughter as we exchanged stories about the fax of life.

And soon we were off to Witless Bay to pick up the East Coast Trail and walk to Bay Bulls, where Sue was to meet the Rogers crew for an interview. Well, not all of us walked there. I only walked to South Fork and back, due to the fact that I had a pick up from a driver to take me back to St. John’s.

east coast trail

It’s hard to describe just how beautiful the trail is here. High up in the cliffs, along the edge of the Atlantic, it is truly stunning, and the woods smelled divine.

trees on the trail

I was proud that I only slipped twice in my non-hiking shoes with no treads on the wet path that sometimes was just inches away from the cliff, and just narrowly avoided a monstrous noseplant walking up a hill. Not bad at all.

But soon I had to say goodbye to the gals, as it was time to go and wander highway 10 and wait for my driver to find me. This is because it was hard to call the office about my change of plans as we couldn’t get cell phone service at Hell Hill Pond, so I just walked up and down the highway looking lost. Worked like a charm.

the pilgrims on the east coast trail

Oh, by the way - my luggage arrived. Phew.

Ok - and now a favour to ask. Will someone show me a tuckamore tree, please? SJIWFF Executive Director and former Haligonian Kelly Davis told me all about the squat indigenous conifers, but none of the Newfoundlanders that I have asked seems to know what it is. I really need to see one for our next line of Man Brooches.

Plus I’d like to see a puffin. Or two. No reason.

[ Hey, join in on the conversation by posting in the Comments section below. Don't want to miss out on any SJIWFF posts? You can subscribe to Bitter Tonic by email - or with RSS. Huh, what's RSS? ]

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Comments: 3

Comments

Comment from Imagene Filmstrip
Time: October 18, 2007, 12:07 am

Irene, Irene…only those who open their hearts to The Tuckamore can truly SEE the Tuckamore.

(tuckamore or less)

As for the toutons, you really should have your pout on cause they’re some good missus! (give Velma’s a try on Water St. or ask someone to take you to Beachy Cove Cafe…)

Your #1 fan,
Imagene

Comment from anna Kelly
Time: October 18, 2007, 8:50 am

Hey you can go where you like you won’t find Toutins like Kay’s…trust me.

Comment from Bitter Staff
Time: October 18, 2007, 3:03 pm

Dang it. I’ve been working for year’s to open that bitter little heart of mine. Imagene, you got a crowbar? If you can pry it open for me, I’ll be your #1 fan.

And double dang re: Kay’s Toutins. I was soooo close. Looks like I will have to go back to Kay’s one day soon and get me some. I know they’ll be great - I had 2 superb meals while I was there.

Mmm - just had a food memory moment. Mmm….

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